Ever wondered why of
all places a City of sluggish trams and lazy hand pulled rickshaws and
occasional “Cholchhe Na Cholbey Na”s, was blessed with the sweet-tag of “City
of Joy”? For that matter is Delhi or any other city in India any less fun? I
have spent an endearing childhood and a lovely adolescence in Delhi and it was
all so much fun, but even then, I could never tag Delhi as the “City of
joy”. I couldn't do so primarily because:
1. In Delhi fish
markets would be like specialty appendixes to the elaborate Subzi Markets. In
Kolkata, Subzi Markets are ornamental appendixes to the elaborate Fish Markets.
Essence of Kolkata’s philosophical existence.
2. Peace is Daal
Bhaat. Happiness is Mangsho Bhaat. Thumb Rule. No City thrives on a thumb rule
that is simpler.
3. It is almost
unconstitutional in Kolkata to indulge in less than four winter picnics. Unlike
in any other place.
4. As a Bengali
settled in Delhi, I thought Durga Pujo flavor is something that would linger on
your mind for 7 days. But my current stay in Kolkata has convinced me that a
Year has two halves: One half when you wait anxiously for Pujo. Second half
when you Plan and execute your Pujo. Simple.
5. You get to speak in
a Language that has “Bhalobasha” in it: 24 X 7.
Now that I live in the city, I know its attitude , flavour and joy. Following is a list of places where I would visit on a day's city tour of Kolkata:
Inside a taxi .
Maidan:
I am not an early
riser but to enjoy a walk from Maidan (Brigade parade ground) to Victoria
Memorial it is worth waking up at six and feel the mist on these lush green
grounds.They serve joggers,
aspiring cricketers and footballers and many strollers like me with greenery
all around and fresh air, may be that is why it is also called “Lungs of
Kolkata”.
Its vast stretch of
area covers Race course to Eden Gardens. One can also enjoy a tram or a horse
cartridge ride surrounding these grounds during the day. After walking for
couple of kilometers I would need to fuel my stomach and for that
will park myself at Flury's for breakfast.
College Street:
My next destination
would be College Street. From Park Street one can take a bus or taxi to reach
there or can walk upto chowringhee and take a metro from Esplanade station.
Chowringhee, the place
crafted by Englishmen in mid eighteenth century with magnificent buildings and
streets connecting it (then gobindapur) with other two villages Sutanuti and
Kolikata. These 150+ years old buildings are still in existence and are
occupied with both private and government offices and banks. To name a few
prominent buildings like Writers Building, Royal Exchange (once home of Sir
Robert Clive), and GPO etc are standing tall in between Chowringhee to
Dalhousie Square (now BBD Bag).
College Street is 5
mins walk away from Central Metro station via Colootola .If Dalhousie is heart
of the city then College Street is its beats. Coolotolla is the place
where you get various editions of decade old magazines to tattered switched novels
at a price of 15 to 20 rupees after hard bargain. These stalls on the pavement
have never disappointed me on my search. After all College street is the
largest second hand book market in the world.Three things that I
will never miss having if I am in College Street are Sherbat from
Paramount, a coconut sweetmeat of Putiram and আমেজ (charming Bengali word for flavour of the mind) [read espresso ] of
Coffee House.
Vendors of Coolotolla selling old books and magazines.
Dakhineswar:
From College Street my
journey would move further to north of Kolkata, crossing Shaymbazar, Cossipore
to reach Dakhineswar. These colonies are one of the oldest in the city. The
residential plots are still the old houses from British era. They run parallel
to river Hoogly (distributary of Ganga). So the commuters have an advantage of
using water transports in addition to road. Dakhineswar Kali
temple was built by Rani Rashmoni who appointed Ramakrishna Parmahansa as its
chief priest. Every year on 1st of January it holds Kalpataru Festival.
The day when Ramakrishna revealed about his incarnation and turned into a wish
fulfilling tree.
Dakhineswar is a
religious place but I will be visiting it for a different purpose i.e. to
have a mesmerizing steamer ride; crossin gwide Ganga to reach other side
of it. Usually I prefer evening time, when the sun is about to set, and
its vermilion shades are floating over the river along with strands of
hyacinth.
On the other side of
the river lies famous Belur Math founded by Swami Vivekanda. This Piece of
architecture resembles of a temple, a church, a mosque if seen from different
position. It lies on the west bank of river Hoogly. One should not miss
its evening arti in the hall. The aura of those thirty minutes is
inexplicable in words.
Dakhineswar temple from moving streamer.
New Market:
My last destination of
day’s travel would be New Market from Belur Math. There are local trains
in morning and evening those ply in between Howrah and Belur Math. After
reaching Howrah usual options are to take direct bus or taxi to New Market.
However, I would prefer taking launch (vessels) from ferry ghat to cross the
river. It is a beautiful experience to stand on its deck and watch the Howrah
Bridge while the cool breeze ruffles your hair. After crossing the river, one
can take any Esplanade bound bus to reach the market.
New market also known as
Hogg Saheber Bajar, named after Sir Stuart Hogg in 1903. Here also one
can find buildings built by Britishers.The market area was developed by them
and it is kept intact.
From Georgettes to
imported Georgia coffee, everything is there to shop for. I generally buy
fruits (those are not available in my colony market), fabrics, silver earrings
and perfumes from here.
I would pick up a
fruit cake from Nahoum's for my family and would conclude the tiring yet
beautiful day on a plate of Aminia's Biriyani.
Calcutta's special Biriyani with Potato , a tradition in practice since the days of Nawab Wajid Ali Shah .
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